Author: Paula Faiferman

Kigamboni inlet, Zanzibar Channel – Indian Ocean

Our fisherman is called Mohamed (Modhi) Johari, 46 years old. He has no parents, but a beautiful sister and a few nephews that live just near by.

He lives in a tiny village by the sea.

Every morning before sunrise he is already beside the skyline, preparing the small canoe made of Mango tree and a homemade fabric, as the sails. After last check of every details and trying no to forget any instrument that later on, could be crucial for the catch.

Even though it is very early, Modhi is accompanied by his sisters even the younger ones. They smile.

They walk to the tide line and it seems that at every turn, the laughs are increasing. Perhaps by my
presence? Perhaps they are surprised to see me climb into the small canoe with Modhi instead of
staying with them on the coast.

What they will do next is take off one of their ‘sarongs’. The colorful piece of cloth, a symbol and
an important part of African culture that every woman will use from birth and is wrapped round it.
These Sarongs are used in different ways: as a skirt, dress, to protect an unborn child from the sun
and heat … And to fish.

And that’s how I see them get into the sea a few inches deep and submerge the ‘Sarong’ using it as a
strainer for fish and algae.

In the meantime Modhi is away from the coast.
Modhi rows offshore for about an hour… or maybe two. Depending on where he left the underwater cages the night before. Just in case good currents were on his side, a good catch is waiting to be dragged to the surface. So, this same afternoon, it is certain that he will be visiting the ‘Centre’ of the village, to talk about weather conditions, new cargo boat arriving to port, and of course, to sell some fish. But now, back at sea and rowing towards his point, Modhi may try to catch a squid or two with the fishing line. You can tell by his face how easy he manages to live on harmony with this vast ocean.

On his tiny canoe, he feels safe and enjoys the smooth lights that begin to appear.

After removing the fish from the cages, they will be returned to the sea, but first he checks them to make sure they are in good condition for another day of fishing.

Modhi makes these cages out of Bamboo sticks, different thicknesses depending on the cage design. These rods have high elasticity which facilitates construction and reinforcing cages and low pressure streams of the sea. Sometimes he negotiates with the Bamboo seller, lea Bing a cage for him to sell, as part of payment for the raw material. Not bad!

Modhi observes the sea, it doesn’t “behave” as it used to a few years ago. The channel is very popular now. Many fishing boats come from Zanzibar, the great tourist island, and cross the channel in search of better fishing. Large vessels like cargo ships have become very common in this route meeting too close to the coast, which scares away all marine life. And it is for this reason that Modhi must paddle farther, and longer eventually coming home with less to sell.

Dodecanese Islands, Kalymnos Island-Aegean Sea

Nickolas Gourlas

By Paula F. 

He learned this profession from his father. And his father from his father and like this we go back in
time for a few more generations of this brave ‘Sponge divers’ ancient seamen.

Curiously, these divers accomplish a long journey to North Africa to catch this precious product,
which is captured by hand. Now a days it is still considered to be a treasure from the depths.

Every year, Kalymnos, a little Greek Island, famous for it’s ‘Sponge divers’ honors these brave
divers have decreased sharply in number due to the ‘Decompression Sickness’ disease or ‘Bends’.
Bear in mind that, many years ago and before all of the Hi-tech we have now a days, they used to
dive , barely dressed and with just one last breath that accompanied them to the bottom.

Staying underwater for two to three minutes on a single breath; at depths of 30 to 60 meters.
They fear nothing; not the dark, not the depths, not the legendary marine monsters…
By inheriting this culture of heroism, they are proud to be providers in the subsistence economy of
their communities.

Nickolas initiates a yearly excursion casting off for the seas and after approximately five months of
hard work he returns to the island. He and his mates will be received by the islanders with all the
honors as if they were heroes that have returned unharmed, from battle.

“If you want to take too much from the depths, you pay the price”.

More and more time at sea, further away and harder to find. These have been some of the
consequences of the rise of sea sponges.

Meanwhile, visiting the home of Nickolas and his family, I am able to see the small factory where
this marine treasure is carefully taken care of, as if it were a precious treasure. Gently processed to
retain all of its properties.
Noma, his sister, tells, me with a twinkle in her eyes; how proud she feels of being part of this
family and its tradition.
With a sad look on account knowing that it is almost for a new crossing and several members of her
family will leave in that little boat. But with a sincere smile she assures me that although it is hard
work, long nights awaiting their return she would not change it for anything in the world.

San José Gulf – Atlantic Ocean

Captain Dario Diaz

His family is integrated by his son of 18 years old. He work with his father, a famous old fisherman well known in town. Dario works with his father, who is a well-known fisherman in his town.

Dario knows the depths of the sea from the age of 5. Among recreational diving, commercial and professional has developed his vast knowledge of the sea. Today, then, is a renowned spearfishing hunter with several medals won throughout Latin America.

Dario’s first contact with the depths of the sea was at the age of five. Since then he has worked as a diving instructor, an underwater photographer and a professional diver. Nowadays he is a renowned spear-fishing hunter with several medals won throughout Latin America.

The type of fishing he does is called ‘Artisan fishery’. Made from a vessel of 8,50 meters in length, 2,40 beam and 1,20 draught. Made of fiberglass, with a 200Hp outboard engine. These fishermen are called ‘buzos marisqueros’ or ‘shellfish divers’. From seabed they collect several types of shellfish , such as scallops, mussels and other species that are found up to 27 meters deep.

His team is made up of a sailor, the captain and another diver. His father often accompanies him as captain while Dario dives to collect shellfish.

The boat has two hoses just over 100 meters each, called ‘Narguile’ or “Hookah” connected to a small compressor installed aft, which provides air during dives. This compressor does not always work continuously, resulting in problems for divers to stay in deep.

The working day usually begins before dawn, loading up equipment, fuel containers and picking up the daily crew..

After a two-hour drive among gravel roads; they reach their destination, Playa Larralde, in the Gulf of San José; a fishermen’s beach, where the boat is.

They then load the plastic containers that will be filled with cargo of scallops. A very important implement, the dip nets, circular nets that a diver uses underwater to collect shellfish. They are commonly called ‘Salabardos’, they have a very peculiar shape with wide rigid mouth on one end, to facilitate the task of uploading the catch under the water. And a loose net on the bottom for optimal charge of many kilos in each sack replacement.

Last check takes place before leaving to sea. This output lasts for hours, always depending on the schedules of tidal currents, weather conditions and wind direction.

Water temperature can reach 8 * degrees in winter. Differences in tidal range up to 8 meters. The optimum time to enter the sea is at low tide; optimizing over bottom times and as a result, the day’s catch.

Those are decisions that the captain must make each day.

The boat is pulled by a small tractor to the coastline. Depending on the site chosen(sea), it may take about an hour to get there.

After a full day at sea, the boat returns to the mainland, overloaded with the day’s catch.

Sailors, divers and captain return home to rest and prepare for the next day of fishing.

Dario has been fishing mussels for twenty years. According to his experience it is difficult to see changes in growth and development in mussels since their cycles are random. There have been good and bad years and he does not believe that there are ties to pollution and/or contamination.

Nowadays the overpopulation of Undaria, an algae species that has grown in the area in an unnatural way. This algae colonizes on vast areas so as to absorb more sunlight, and can reach up to 17mts deep. Therefore mussels choose deeper areas to grow where they can have more oxygen and be free of algae. Due to this their growth is affected. Mussels have been found up to 72mts. Deep.

This is how Dario remembers his days out at sea ,a very special event comes to mind. And he remembers this as the most special moment under the sea….

He was collecting mussels when suddenly he saw a shadow at about 1 meter from where he was. It was a Southern Right Whale hovering over him, curious of what he was doing. They starred at each other for a bit and then both Dario and the whale carried on with their own business. The whale stayed there for a while as if it was accompanying him in his taks. He felt safe and protected and knew the whale would not harm him. Once again he felt he was part of the sea just as she was.